I see why everyone is so hot on it. I have been a dealer for most of the great bass amp companies over the years, Trace Elliot, Peavey, Fender, Roland, Yamaha, Ampeg, SWR and many I’ve forgotten and this is in the top best performing bass amp combos, I’ve auditioned. Huge volume that “hold together”. The folded horn design of the speaker cab, I think is the secret. It really develops huge, pounding bass about 35 feet out front watch out if you’re unfortunate enough to be sitting in the 3rd or 4th row listening to this thing. One of the coolest features about this amp is the “Variamp” EQ preset control.
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Mic has graciously granted permission to post the stuff on the JT30 page on the off chance that it might be useful in the context of Blues Harmonica. Mic is not responsible for the content, just the collection. Hi Tremolux, I like it more than the V As you mentioned, GT uses it, so you may be able to get a listen. Not sure if it’s really a keyboard speaker, as it’s got all the trademark Celestion bumps and rolloffs.
That may have been started due to the ‘K’ terminology. Celestion says it has ‘more bass’ than the V30, but I don’t take their literature very seriously. I’ve even called Celestion USA to try to find out about some of their speakers Anyway, my own opinion of the K is that it has less of the brash, forward midrange bump of the V This may make it seem as if it has more bass, but that’s not necessarily so. The most emphasized effect is the upward tilt at the top end.
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It’s all there, but needs work. Here’s what we know. When we first powered the unit up slowly on our Vari-Ac, it started climbing in current to almost 3 amps by the time we approached 60 volts. The motor would not turn at almost 60 volts. I disconnected the motor and brought it up on the Vari-AC by itself with similar results. I tried to spin the motor with my fingers, and it started turning, but had a lot of “un-lubricated” bearing noise. I then lightly and superficially, lubed the motor and at 60 volts it ran pretty well, but still had a lot of current draw, almost 3 amps.
The motor windings, while they don’t smell bad, are very dark so I’m guessing the motor needs to be re-wound, repaired or replaced. Other than the shape of the axel it’s a standard AC motor that’s used in most motor driven devices. Should be able to interchange the armature with another motor. The electrolytic caps seemed to be holding charge fine.
I didn’t see any other burnt or problematic parts. The heads are all there, but I don’t know their condition.
Not recommended in amps with plate voltage over volts though many cases of success at up to volts have been reported. Bottle has dimple in the glass on top. I’d like 2 more pairs to match the first pair.
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We hope to welcome you by there soon! Until things get back to normal, here is a wonderful restoration of a Rhodes Mark I Suitcase. This beauty could have been yours but someone fell in love with it before we even had a chance to apply its new tolex! This Rhodes originally came from a school and besides the tolex being torn up it was in incredible condition internally when it came in.
Nov 12, · Hi all, I’ve picked up a pair of vintage “new old stock”, JBL DF 15″ drivers. These are “as new” and have been well stored in their original boxes since manufacture and thus not used at all since they were originally purchased in the mid ‘s I’m told.
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Well if you want to swap speakers for your JBL Df speakers in your vintage Twin Reverb Dating sites and free dating sites do not focus on helping singles find love in Topeka, done that Through this exercise.
I promise the tables will still be there after you finish reading. We also received a report of a tweed 5G12 Concert. The 5G12 Concert is the earliest version from very late and early so the existence of a tweed example, while extremely rare, is certainly plausible since Fender was making lots of tweed amps during the same time period. Working at FMI — I was able to interview a fellow who wishes to remain anonymous who worked at Fender in in the amp department.
Although his job was somewhat limited, his recollections provided some really fascinating insights to how the amps were built. For instance, he confirmed our assumption that the amp chassis were put into stock after being stamped with serial numbers and that the chassis were pulled from the stock bins randomly just as with Fender guitar neck plates. The boss came around and said what we’d be building. The chassis weren’t used chronologically. Probably the same as the pots and transformers that we just dug out of the boxes.
I think in the corners of the boxes were older pots remaining from earlier dates I think the better, older hands did 35 a day.
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That amp worked pretty well with my Rick string. That amp turned out to be an early-production Pro-Amp. I started to investigate the world of pre-CBS Fender amplifiers. During that era Fender blackface amps, covered in black tolex with silver grilles, were everywhere. I combed through vintage dealer ads and began to pick up Fender amps in tweed, white, brown and blackface versions, trying to stick to or before.
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Mic has graciously granted permission to post the stuff on the JT30 page on the off chance that it might be useful in the context of Blues Harmonica. Mic is not responsible for the content, just the collection. He must have quite alot of free time. Info on Quad Reverb? Mon, 08 Sep How does it compare to the Twin Reverb?
What will a good price be? Check the price differences between the different models. I Hope this information helps you in some way. Regards, Rich Koerner, Time Electronics. Fri, 02 Oct
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Speaker Codes And What They Mean The picture is a section of the basket rim of a speaker. The 6 digit code indicates what manufacturer made the speaker and when it was made.
Per manufacturing regulations, the makers of electronics must include a minimum amount of production date information on their products. Depending on when the speakers were made this information may simply include a year and week or may be more specific, down to the day or hour. Disconnect the speakers from the power supply and connections before proceeding. If the speakers are in a vehicle, disconnect the negative terminal of the car battery before removing any speakers.
Carefully turn the speakers around so that the back of the speaker is facing you. Inspect the back of the speaker for a sticker that has digits or letters on it. If you do not see a sticker look for engraved numbers on the back surface of the speaker or turn the speaker over and inspect for numbers. Find the manufacturer date code. The first three digits indicate the maker of the speakers.
The number indicates Altec Lansing and represents Harman Kardon. Look at the remaining digits. The first two digits after the manufacturer three digit code indicate the year. Speakers made before the s only have one digit representing the year which is misleading. The remaining digits indicate the week of that year.
History[ edit ] The Fender Twin has gone through a number of changes over the years, both cosmetically and electronically. October Twin-Amp, model 5E8. Dual rectifiers and 6L6 power tubes, twin 12″ speakers. The early models of the larger “narrow-panel” tweeds are also remarkable for their refined electronics whose circuit design incorporated dual 5U4 rectifiers in the Twin and Bassman models, another improvement given Fender’s quest for a louder, cleaner amplifier.
The entire line of Fender amplifiers from to later for smaller models and Bassman was uniform in this look—tweed or “airline linen” covering with a maroon with gold stripe woven saran grill cloth. By the end of the decade, a JBL 15″ speaker was available on special order for the Pro model.
Mar 19, · I have a couple of JBL DF guitar speakers that I would like to date but I would most like to know if these speakers are original or if they have been reconed. I bought them used in a Fender cabinet without the amp.
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